Wednesday, July 20, 2016

Apple Farming in the Ethiopian Highlands

Got the opportunity to go out to the countryside for the afternoon with my friend and co-worker Magda.  Her family has a farm about 100 km north of the city. 
 
As we left the suburbs of Addis behind the metropolis faded into suburbs and then dwindled away to the occasional town- a group of about 200 homes with the required fruit stands, plastic shops and roadside mechanics.  The road winds over the hills surrounding Addis and then slowly climbs to the highlands.  The fertile fields that surround Addis slowly change to green rocky highlands scattered with family groupings of traditional homes, the rocky fields patchworked with crops and mixed herds of goats, sheep, and cows watched over by children. There are two very distinct herding styles.. the little boy who takes his job very seriously and has the animals all together and on the move, and the mischievous child doing handstands in the field while the animals are scattered everywhere.  
 
 
The highlands high altitude is deceptive. As a high plateau it is not covered with  snow capped mountain peaks but rather rolling green hills with the occasional rocky outcropping. But its altitude can not be denied. At 2800 meters the Ethiopian highland is twice as high as Katmandu the capital of Nepal, and sits equal with Quito the capital of Peru, perched high in the Andes. The high altitude has huge effects on the lives of the agrarian peoples of this region. 80-85% of the population of Ethiopia practice farming as their main occupation-producing food to feed their families and livestock and once that demand is met to sell what ever is left.  However in the rocky soil and thin air of the highlands what grows is minimal. 
 
 Tilling small plots of land with oxen the farmers here mostly grow wheat, barely, beans and lentils. However these crops are so very susceptible to the frost.  Main growing season is rainy season June-August with harvest in September.  Months of frost are September through to January when polar winds sweep the highlands during the first half of dry season. When planting is delayed for various reasons mostly related to weather the harvest times creeps into the frost season and entire crops are lost. In recent years, changing weather patterns has really been challenging to this timelines which stretches back centuries.  While a large portion of the east region of Ethiopia is close to drought due to lack of the summer rains, this region faces unique challenges.
 Magda's father for the past 10 years has working hard to devise ways to grow other crops in this harsh environment. While these crops will not exclusively feed families they would provide valuable cash crops that they could sell  He is working with apples, pears and olives.  10 years ago he started with a small orchard of 1 variety of apple which bears fruit once a year and then a few years ago has been working with root stock and breeding other varieties which bear fruit in July and then again in January.  He works hard at the education of those who would benefit most from his work- inviting his neighbours for formal training of the planting, care, and harvesting of the crops. Others in the agiculureal world in Ethiopia are also excited of the work he is pioneering. NGO's concerned with food security and sustainability are partnering with him to educate others as well.   He is also working with agriculturalist at the university working with using different herbs for pest control. 
 
 

 The FarmHouse
 Daily rains and storms of the season-
 Before we got to work we had lunch and coffee first- Ethiopian Culture is one which really celebrates eating and drinking together.  Injera and Coffee are the staples of any gathering.


 The thunder rumbled ahead for the entire afternoon.
Here you can see the rocky ground which makes plowing, growing and maintain fields a challenge.

 Wheat and grass are harvested to feed the animals and stacked to protect it from the elements


 The farm also has a herd of sheep- They eat the grass, provide a protein source as well as nutrient rich manure to feed the fruit trees- Elsewhere in Ethiopia barns and homes are made of mud and reeds, here in the highlands the excess rocks are put to good use

 Anyone who knows me know I love the donkeys... so nice to see one not in the concrete jungle


 a little size perspective for how massive the mounds of grass and wheat are.
 Olive trees frame the old home on the property that now doubles as a class room for local farmers to learn about apple farming

 While right now the grass is green and wet, the trees require irrigation in the dry season.  The high fence protects the apples from the antelope that roam the plateau
 

 Thunder or not we headed out to the orchard to pick



So passionate about his trees and plans he has for the future






 Apple trees just our size!!

 
 Hail like that which fell later that day wrecks havoc on the smooth skin of the apples
 mmmm pears!!!! I never thought I would get sick of mangos but nothing like a good pear to remind you of fruit from home!!
 And then suddenly the rain that the thunder had warned about for the previous three hours fell!!!. Suddenly it is dark and pouring!!!
 Magda's mom has been so great- hospitable, welcoming me into their family. She is wonderful kind women who loves to entertain, garden, and garden. - forgive the huge waterspot on the lense!!!

 When it rains it rains!!!!

 As we got in the car to drive home, the rain changed to hail. It pounded down for about 10 mins and I couldn't help but think about the apples still on the trees, the newly sprouted barley, and all those depending on them for food and security.  Living by the land has huge rewards (it was heaven to be out of the city for the day) but also huge risks and life altering consequences when things beyond your control go wrong.  There are no second chances there is only 12 months to wait until you can try again and in between the uncertainty of sustenance.


 

 

Tuesday, July 12, 2016

Hawassa

I am sorry if you have been trying to contact me since last week.
  Sometimes I think this is why our internet doesn't work very
well but this time it wasn't that....

 The government run internet has censored all social media (click here to read BBC on this topic) starting last week and this week it has also included all internet services since Monday- The internet came back on Wednesday- Social media hopefully tomorrow.. Apparently it had to do with university exams.  However it has been a bit isolating and frustrating.   













As hiring nurses, writing OR instrument lists ect does not make for fascinating pictures or dialogue this is a post from a few weekends back when we went to Hawassa for the weekend. It was a well needed break. 
We flew instead of bussing as it is safer and the flight was cheaper then hiring a driver ($80 round trip) Air service to Hawassa is new as of May- it is a 30min flight from Addis in which (take note Air Canada)- The plane takes off and the stewardesses run down the aisle- pour drinks, toss out a sandwich to everyone and then collect garbage and then land!! Once you land you realize that the airport really did just open.... get off the plane and follow every one else down a dirt road to a out building where there is a bus to take you the 13km down a dirt road into town
Once we reached the center of town we realized that we were in the middle of something.... but what that something was we didn't know.  There were hundreds of people dressed in cultural clothes, carrying big sticks and yelling and chanting... we popped into a little coffee shop to have a coffee and to get a feel of whether what was happening was a good something or a bad something. Turns out for that little region alone it was New Years-  Ethiopians already have a different calendar- it is 13 months, New Years is in September and it is only 2008 but in this town and its surroudings they celebrate in July

We were forsure the only white people in the entire crowd... between the cell phones and real cameras I am sure our picture was taken a lot.. this guy was taking one of me.. I figured it was fair game to take one of him


Elders and young people alike dressed up for the occasion- note the furs...
Small differences in colour and outfits showed what region people were from..
This fountain is the center of the town square where the parade was held


We stayed at the Haille Resort... started by the famous marathon runner-.  It was gorgeous and not to busy... rainy season bonus... mostly middle class Ethiopians out in Hawassa for New Years
Views around the grounds
Sunset by the marshes... Dogging Mosquitos- did not want Malaria.. and looking for Hippos 


Saturday we had a Bajaj driver take us around town.. This is the fish market.. the main industry in Hawassa is fishing.  Here the fisherman come in with their catch and sell it to local housewives, restaurants ect.  It was a interesting mix of people, cranes and dogs running around.  The stork stand about 4 feet tall and are abit aggressive as they fight for fish scrapes.  Forgive the photo overload.. it was just so visually appealing


This stork was doing its own fishing



Nicole bought some fish guts and fed the stork..




This shows the amount of storks, people and mud!!

Learning from Papa and older brother while the stork watches for scrapes

Just for size comparison... full sized goats... a stork
Then we headed to the local market.. it was abit of a mud hole... also don't think that many white people come through here... a young boy literally set down his wheelbarrow and sat and stared at Nicole...
 
Being in the countryside means the produce is just gorgeous.... also need some shoes?? 
 
This lady was so filled with joy as she sold us some baskets.


Beside the fish market was a park with monkeys... now  I am not a fan of monkeys... aggressive monkeys in India kind of put me off of them... but these ones were cute and didn't come to close...



Saturday Afternoon we went out on the lake for 1/2hr boat ride.  we were pretty lucky and saw some hippos.. There is a pod of about 10 that live in the lake.  As much as hippos make cute cartoon characters they actually are the second most dangerous animals in the world- per human encounter mosquitos rank #1 (malaria) and hippos #2. 



Papa, Mama and Baby



One of the drivers that we occasionally use in Addis was down in Hawassa for the weekend as well and he invited us out to his brothers little courtyard restaurant... He had just opened and had a local band for the night. 
Sunday Morning before we headed back up to Addis Nicole and I went for a walk along side the lake.  It was gorgeous...storks, local people just out for some recreational fishing and we spotted some hippos too!!
Boys out on boats made of nothing more then water jugs strapped together and topped with cardboard

Donkeys getting the day off..
Heading back to Addis....The airport was so ghetto... hand written boarding cards... could go through security as much as you wanted.. which you needed to .. the bathroom was outside, you could take your water through security ect... and then we walked the dirt road back out to the airplane and headed back to Addis.
The Airstrip is still new enough that it attacts lots of kids from the nearby village to see the planes takeoff and land.