Journeys in Rajesthan

The morning in Udaipur we quickly walked through the winding streets to the textile shop we had visited the day before. The door was open but it was dark inside. We wandered in and a round and then asked a man passing by if it was open ... He seemed shocked to see us there but said he would tell someone we were there , within a few minutes men came to the shop. You could tell they were breathless from running.We wheeled and dealed and in a 1/2 hour had a package full of pillowcases, blankets and purses ready to be shipped to Canada.  It is almost impossible to choose on places like this. There are literally 100's of everything and each so unique and gorgeous. All colour, embroidery, glass and patterns. We then met up with our driver Ram and drove onward to Rhoten. It was about a 4 hour drive through a mix of farms, desert mountains and desert.  Brightly garbed women herding cows or sweeping stoops broke up the brown dustiness of the landscape. Every so often a field would be green and we could see oxen going round and round a water wheel to pump water for irrigation. In the mountains there were also some very curious monkeys.  We arrived about 330 at Rhoten. We drove in a dirt road into a village. We stopped at a gate and when we walked through it was into paradise. - a huge courtyard with grass, trees and flowers.  Huge sandstone buildings rimmed the court yard. It was the property that had belonged to the ruling family of the feudal village. It had been in the family since 1622- but partially converted to a hotel in 1990. Our room used to be the court room. We relaxed in the gardens for a while and then set out to explore the village. A local shop keeper attached himself to us as our guide. The people here were friendly and joyful. We chatted with women sitting on the stoops peeling garlic, men shooting the breeze on porches. Our guide's father was a shoemaker and we went to his shop and watched him make gorgeous handmade leather shoes. We also got pulled into a pre wedding  celebration - dancing, henna and lots of photos and questions. The bride was gorgeous , everything so colourful and joyous. We headed back to the hotel for dinner on the rooftop and then back to the village for a bit more time at the wedding and to give a gift to the bride.  We weer up early the next morning had breakfast and then headed out for a jeep safari. We drove around the countryside seeing some antelope and the visiting some local people - in and brahma caste village we watched a traditional opium ceremony and learned the traditions behind it. We also visited a local potter who did amazing work all on a hand spin wheel.  Then it was back to the hotel where Ram picked us up again and we headed out for about a 2 hour drive to Mavar Camp. We had lunch at the main place and the once again headed out jeeps- here the landscape was desert interspersed with small areas where herdsmen live and farm during the monsoon. We drove the fields and up and down sand dunes stopping for a small herd of wild camels and to visit a local blacksmith. We ended up at the Camp. It was pretty much straight out of a movie. A row of white tents in the desert - they had little porches with chairs and then through a flap into huge room and then a full luxury stone washroom at the back. It was fabulous. We chilled on the porch for a bit and then got on camels for a sunset camel ride. The camels were awesome- they are all individually owned by their  owners and they are just on a list that is rotated through as needed  It is kind of a competition and pride thing for the owners to see how decked out their camels are - they had glitter, flower garlands, and all sorts of decorations on them.  It was amazing. You sit so high and it has a very swinging gait. We rode from the camp across some fields and up to the top of a dune to see the sun go down. Cows, peacocks, and farms dotted the landscape.  Back at the camp there was a expression of culture through music and dance. The Rajasthani people are so colourful and culturally rich -life here is preserved as it has been for centuries.  In the morning waking up in the desert was gorgeous- the air crisp, the birds singing and the sun warm.  We had spent the day before in some of the same activities as a lovely couple from Denmark who even though they had been married for 12 years had never had honeymoon so that morning I did a bit of a photo shoot for them to have some nice pics to remember their time together. After breakfast we got back in the car and went onwards to Jodhpur- I know I simply say driving... But that in itself is an adventure - driving is on the other side here, lanes are suggestions, and if drivers are not enough the COWS!!!!!! Oh my -in the city it's not too bad because there are not to many but everywhere else it's crazy they are very placid and chill but also don't move very fast- are no respecters of roads intersections or car horns.  Our driver is skilled but even then sometimes you pass a big truck up a hill and around a corner and then comes oncoming traffic and WHAT there a cow in your lane!!!  We got to Jodphur checked into our hotel and then headed out with our guide. He wAs an older man who was well educated had a farm and guided part time. We headed out to the crematorium/cemetery for the royal family of the town - gorgeous marble place on a hill over looking the town. Then headed up to the Fort - we are all about experiencing the local not so much the buildings so we just walked around the outside- we had to convince our guide we didn't want the 2 hour tour- our guides I think are used to a older crowd who want to hear every detail history and take pic of every plac.. Instead we walked down the steep cobbled hill to the streets of Jodphur- It is called the blue city as many of the homes are painted blue- simply indigo dye in water. - it keeps the homes cool, repels Mosquitos and is the colour of the Brahma Cast.  We wandered the narrow twisted streets ending up at the local market. If you need anything it is here. One of the biggest wholesale markets in the province. Here there are sellers of every thing you could possibly imagine. The crowded twisted streets are somewhat sorted according to product - there are vegesellers, copper sellers, rice vendors ,Muslim textile streets, Hindu textile shops, and Sari stores crowded with women and looking like the colour wheel exploded. Tables stacked high with sparkling bangles competed with the vibrant colours of the women selling them. We bartered for second hand sari scarfs and dodged cows chewing their cud as we wove deeper into the fray. Smells of frying samosa, popcorn and chai saturated the senses almost drowning out the smoke and exhaust fumes that cling to everything .  As we walked the vege street aromas of garlic, onions, spinach and oranges filled the air. The carrots here are bright red here. Open air barbers calmly cut hair and shaved chins beside the roadside motorcycle repair stand. We stopped a stand to try pan- a leaf layered with multiple spices, bitterroot and sugar and then folded up -  Local men watched our expressions and laughed as we put the entire thing in our mouth and did our best to chew and chew and chew. Then it was climbing three floors up in the wholesale textile market- heaps and heaps of blankets shawls and throws filled it from floor to ceiling. We fingered gorgeous scarves made of yak and camel wool. We jumped a bit as mouse too stopped by to enjoy the display. Then it was back out the door down the street to the spice seller- the store smelled of baking and cooking heaven. The seller was a women, whose father had started the store with a vision of selling quality spices world wide. We drank chai as we debated the merits of madras curries versus South Indian curries, saw the difference between fake and real saffron and smelled amazing tea. We then wove back through the crowds to the centre clock tower. We took a horse drawn carriage back to the hotel. We stopped at an Atm on the way back. I can sincerely tell you I the the first time I took a horse to the bank lol. 

We rose early this morning and as I wrote this we are on a train to Jaipur. It is a about an 5 hour journey and we should be there by 11.  The train is okay we are in second class so have assigned seats. Jenn tells me the bathrooms are horrid- I am hoping I don't have to go. The landscape what I can see though the soot stained windows is arid- dry with scraggly trees.  I will post this once I get to the hotel In Jaipur. Internet here is not being very cooperative with pictures but i will do my best.  Take care ...

Eta we are staying at the most posh place ever... The Hilton - we had to through security- full mirrors under the car and airport scanners to go in - rainfall showers and sweeping views of the city.  We get to stay here two nights !!