Tuesday, September 7, 2010

Broken Islands

So here is the story of the adventures of Melanie and Rosie kayaking in the Broken Islands. Sept 19-24. I decided to write it up abit on here to help share the pictures and for my own memory because in 6 months I will not be able to remember what we did and my one-word journal in the front of the Sudoku book which read something like "Saturday, breakfast, sunshine, paddled" will not be much help in filling in the details.
Thursday:
I got off work early at 4pm and was delighted to see Rosie pull up to the ER in her dads jeep ( her car would have been abit squishy to sleep in) we drove off to Oma's for a quick shower ( a pt had puked on me in the back of an ambulance that day) and drove off to the ferries. We caught the 815 ferry to Naniamo. On board the ferry we used our time wisely and read all the "how-to" books on kayaking safety as we had been planning to go up to Cultus and practice our self rescues but ran out of time. Once we felt confident that we would be able to save our selves and entered the Environment Canada number into our cell phones so we could check weather reports we relaxed and played some cards. We got off the ferry and drove to P.Alberni.

Once in P. Alberni at about 12pm we drove around abit to figure out where we needed to catch the Frances Barkley ship in the morning we settled into the Jeep's front seats in the Safeway Parking Lot. Apparently there is a New and Old part of P. Alberni... we never saw the new!!! But it seemed safe enough lots of lights.. a police car cruising around. I slept just fine.. poor Rosie didn't the cat that jumped on the hood of the truck just about gave her a heart attack. The next morning at 6 we woke up prepared to get coffee from the Starbucks we had both "seen" and talked about the night before... yeah.. there was no Starbucks!!!! I am not sure what we both hallucinated but it was no where to be found!!!

We went on down to the docks and loaded all of our stuff into a big bin and put Rosie's kayak on the dock and it all got loaded on to the Frances Barkley, an old ferry from Norway which would take us up the inlet to Seachart Lodge. As that old boat chugged up the inlet we tried to sleep on the hard red vinyl chairs and noticed for the first time that we were the "odd ones out". The "two girls together" demographic did not exist in the islands. There was the parent/kids (heavy on the father with unimpressed son), the older married couple, and the young married couple with single friend along but we were unique.. leading people to think that we for some reason knew what we were doing and hence asked us for all sorts of advice haha.

At Seachart Lodge I picked up my kayak (Malachi) and we proceed to finagle and compress all of our stuff into our kayaks. You can actually fit a ton of stuff in them just as long as you pack rather long and skinney. Our stuff for 4 days including all our water fit in rather nicely with only one redneck milk jug of water needing to be strapped on top.

Rosie and I had both been to the islands before so we kinda knew a bit where we wanted to camp and paddle. So we set off for Gilbrater Island. We paddled across one channel and then picked our way through some narrows, and in and around some coves and little islands around Nettle Island. The entire trip we really enjoyed every nook and cranny, not really worrying about distance (though we did paddle over 40 kms) but really enjoying the view.

A seal, the only big wild life we saw the whole trip. We got to Gilbratler, picked a prime spot in edge of the trees over looking the beach. We set up our tent and then went to check out the beach. Perhaps we didn't sleep as well as we thought the night before because before we knew it we both fell asleep for about an hour!!
When we woke up it was about 5 o'clock. The sun was really shining so we went out for a paddle. We went around the edge of Gilbralter, paddling through some quiet lagoons, went across and found a really nice beach on the side of Dempster and then went back around the rest backside of Gilbrater. It was more exposed so we were in some nice gentle swell as we paddle past some large sea caves which unfortunately were partly hidden because of the tide. Past the caves the coast was rocky and rugged, the water here smelled sweet.. we thought like watermelon!!

(The other side of Gilbralter)
We ate some supper on the beach, drank tea, and played some more crib before bed ( I think my winning streak was up to 5 games at this point)
Saturday morning we had wanted to paddle with the high tide so we slept in till about nine, woke to semi-overcast skies, and then sat on our log and ate some breakfast. As we drank tea and ate muffins we discussed the finer points of our blood's ph. Trying to decide if we would currently be more acidic or alklotic based on factors like increased lactic acid, dehydration, oxygen available at sea level, metabolic compensation. We decided that we would probably be just fine!!!.
We had timed our paddleing for high tide because we were going through the narrow lagoon between the Islands of Jaques and Jarvis. This is a cool lagoon with two narrow openings and several islands in the middle. The picture above shows one of the outlets which is about 6 feet wide and only passable at high tide. The Natives used to block it off at high tide so when the tide ebbed all the water would go out but the fish would remain behind. We then paddled through the Tiny Islands singing every camp and kids song we could think off, and the through the channels around Turtle and Willis. We got to the camp area on Willis about 2 :30, set up camp , then ate lunch under the trees as a drizzly rain began to fall. We chilled out under the trees, reading books, drinking tea, and snoozing until 5ish, when rain or no rain we bundled up and circumnavigate around the neighbouring Dodd Island. It was abit cold and wet, but a bit choppy and fun to paddle in. My kayak was a bit sturdier than Rosie's so I think she felt the chop more than I did. By the time we got back to camp the rain had stopped and we cooked up some supper.

Supper was delicious and warm.. the dishes abit greasy to wash(as the camp soap stayed at the last site because the top broke!!)
But they were done in time for us to go and sit out on a log and enjoy this glorious sunset. We then made some tea, ate skittles, and played some more crib ( I was still winning). And then joined the campfire of a few fellow campers. You meet some neat people when you are out on the islands even if they say that we look to young to be even graduated, never mind nurses.. but we weren't the only unprepared ones!!all of them only had good intentions of practicing their rescue skills too!!

We woke up Sunday morning to SUNSHINE and a good stiff breeze.
We had some lovely pancakes with strawberry syrup for breakfast. And then we set out around the outer edge of Willis. This was quite exposed and we had a good 3/4 meter swell with white cap chop ont op to paddle through. We definatly worked breakfast off and got pretty sloshed for a good 20-30 mins as we rounded the point. (sorry no pics of that, didnt want the camera wet, and couldn't not paddle!!) We had planned to go around the outside of turtle as well but decided that perhaps we didn't want to have to practice those rescue moves that day!! Instead we sang as we paddle back through the channel to the back side of Dempster.

Lots of little rockey outcroppings

On the inside of Dempster there was the neat beach that we found two days before and we beached the kayaks here for lunch, a nap and some wadeing/shell collecting.

Then it was paddeling back to Gilbrater to set up camp for the evening. We we read for a while and then cooked some Chicken Soup for dinner.


Being a hiker/camper you kinda get used to backwoods facilities... but bathrooms are another reason I LOVE the Broken Islands. This is the bathroom!!! a shell lined path, exterior decorations, a window with an ocean view, and a neat way to flush... put one shell scoop of shavings in after you go!!
Rosie, my fantastic friend!!

Rosie, taking a break from the crib. Poor girl still hadn't won!!. We played crib and drank tea. it was cold so we joined the island fire. Good Choice, great group of people around the fire. some guys had just caught some fresh prawns and crab so they were cooking it on the fire. So DELICIOUS!!!.

So the picture is a bit blurry, but it really doesn't show the magic of that hour. About midnight, the full moon was shining on our cove, the wind was calm and the water was glass and the phosphorescent was sparkling in the water. So we took our kayaks out and paddled silently around for about 1/2 hour. So still and beautiful.


So the next morning we fully expected to wake up in the fog because the day before had been so clear and the night SO cold. but it was sunny with just a few clouds. We had oatmeal for breakfast, packed everything up for the last time and started on our way. We had lots of time before we had to catch the boat so we wandered back through the Jarvis/Jaques lagoon. The tide was lower this time so we stuck close to shore and looked at all the starfish.



We paddled through a group of little islands which had no name according to our chart. So we officially christened them the Melrosie Islands. We ended back at the lodge with plenty of time to unpack our stuff and have six minutes of shower bliss. Then we hopped back on the Frances Barkley and chugged back up to P.Alberni. Once back there, we found a laundomat, put a load in and then hit up Safeway for some supper food. Buns and brie( yes Corina, no backpack trip is complete without brie) and soup (Thank you starbucks man for the boiling water). We ate while the laundry finished and then armed with knowledge of where a starbucks actually existed we picked up drinks and headed for Naniamo.

We were going to sleep at the ferry terminal, but when we passed Walmart we knew that was the place to be. So we took our place among all the huge motor homes and people walking their poodles!! We ran across the road to Timmies to brush our teeth before we settled in for the night. We first played a few games of crib.. which I am happy to report that Rosie won the last one!!

Tuesday morning, after both sleeping fantastically well, we got coffee and headed for the ferry terminal. I had to go to the walkon area because I had to catch the bus to Ukee and Rosie had to go to the car area... unfortunatly this area is seperated by a fence with barbed wire on top. But we had 1 1/2 hour to kill. so we played cards through the fence, Rosie had to win more than one game right?? So ended the adventures of Rosie and Melanie.

1 comment:

  1. Sounds like you had a wonderful time - and your pictures are GORGEOUS!!!! I love reading your blog, you definately tell great stories!
    Love Aunt Jacquelien

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